Year 10 Monday 28/2: Summarising the TRESB Project

1. The problem which lead to the TRESB Project.

During the 1950's sandbars started forming along the river mouth, the short term solution to this problem was the extending of the breakwaters. The breakwater on the southern side of the Tweed River acted to trap sand that would naturally be moved in a northerly direction by longshore drift. The continual build‑up of sand on the southern side of the breakwater eventually caused the river mouth to once again silt up. It became apparent that continually extending the breakwaters was not the solution to providing a safe entrance to the Tweed River. This also caused beaches in a northerly direction to be malnourished. A proper solution was needed.



    2. The solution to the problem.
The solution to this problem was a strategy known as TRESB. This stands for the tweed river entrance sand bypassing project. It aimed to re-create the natural longshore drift process of the coast, which hopefully would help the building up of sand in the tweed river area and would also help get sand up to beaches in the north (Gold Coast beaches). Sand is pumped from where it accumulates on the southern side of the Tweed River, via a system of pipes, across the Tweed River to one of four outlets where sand is released onto the beach.

 
3 The result of the project. What areas were effected and how? Do you think that it was a success?

The TRESB project is renowned as extremely successful. The result was that beaches of the Southern Gold Coast recieved a continual supply of sand and it also helped the problem of the Tweed River building up. The cooperation of the state and local governments helped this project massively. Both northerly beaches and the Tweed River areas were affected.

Year 10: 7.3 Geographical Processes Shaping the Coastal Environment

1. For the first image use Google maps to find a beach that is of similar shape. Capture it and label the picture with the information in the diagram 7.7.

2. Find pictures for each of these coastal features in the next TWO pictures (do at least 10) (7.13 + 7.9). Copy them to your blog post and label them. (you don't have to do 'beach'). Post to blog.

coastal lagoon-

sand dunes-

offshore sand bar-

Sand Spit-



blowhole-

Wave cut platform-



3. Find a picture of a Headland with a Wave-Cut Platform and label it with the information in 7.8. Post to blog.

4. Find a beach (any beach will work) and use all the labels from the longshore drift diagram below to annotate it. Post to blog

Big Wave Profile

The Wedge is a world-famous surfing and bodysurfing spot located at the far east end of the Balboa Peninsula in Newport Beach, California. During a south swell of a particular size and direction, the Wedge can produce huge waves as spectacular and intimidating as any in Hawaii, Tahiti, or Australia. The wedge can produce waves up to 30 feet high.

The waves are a by-product of improvements to the groin (rock jetty) on the west side of the Newport Harbor entrance undertaken during the 1930s. When conditions are just right, and the waves approach the shore at the proper angle (south swells), an approaching wave will reflect off the jetty creating a second wave. The reflected wave meets up with the following wave of the set and forms a peak. Because of this effect, waves at the wedge are often several feet larger than waves at other south-facing beaches in Newport on any given day.

The Wedge only breaks big when intense Southern Hemisphere storms or large tropical depressions, and hurricanes send their energy from the proper SSW direction, primarily during the summer & fall months.

Between the Balboa Pier and the Wedge, waves are referred to as a shore or beach break. When the crest of the wave comes crashing down, regardless of its size, it lands in water no more than 1 to 2 feet (0.30 to 0.61 m) deep, and it will sometimes land directly on to the sand. This condition causes uninformed and inexperienced swimmers to be at extreme risk of a spinal cord injury. If a person is to "go over the falls," (fall with the water in the crest of the wave), he will commonly strike his head on the sand below the shallow water. Shore break waves are much thicker and stronger for their size than waves that break farther out. Their thickness increases the force in which they strike the ground. Lower Newport sees many spinal cord injury victims every summer who often end up as quadriplegics.

The conditions at the Wedge are only for a swimmer in peak physical condition, with ample amounts of ocean experience and proper equipment.

Page 167 Questions

1. Why did it become necessary to extend the Tweed Riverbreakwaters?

originally, the breakwaters were constructed to stabilise the river entrance and help keep it clear of sand, however the continual build up of sand on the southern side of the breakwater eventually eventually caused the river mouth to once again silt up, therefore the breakwaters needed to be extended

2 What impact would the construction of the breakwaters have had on the replenishment of sand to the Gold Coast beaches after severe storm erosion?

At the time of the construction of the breakwaters, the long term effect on the supply of sand to beaches north (gold coast) was not considered. Gold coast beaches were being deprived of there natural source for sand because of these breakwaters. This is because the breakwater trapped sand that would normally move in a northerly direction.

3 Why did the Tweed River become unsafe to shipping? Explain the natural process that caused sandbars to form over theWhat impact would the construction of the breakwaters have had on the replenishment of sand to the Gold Coast beaches after severe storm erosion?

During the 1950's Tweed river became a hazard for shipping because of sandbars that were forming across the river mouth. Longshore drift was the cause of this continual build up of sand.
Why was the dredging of the Tweed River and the associated beach nourishment program only a short-term solution to
A more efficient long-term solution was required for this problem because the dredging of sand for nourishment in northen beaches is extremely expensive and would need to occur continously in order to solve the problem

4 ?

Describe the way the TRESBP replaces the natural process
This project is an example of how people can implement strategies that re-creates a natural process that is operating along the coast. The project aims to replicate the natural process of longshore drift. Sand is pumped from where it accumulates on the southern side of the Tweed River, via a system of pipes, across the Tweed River to one of four outlets where sand is released onto the beach. The beaches of the area are monitored in order to determine which beach will be supplied with sand from the pumping scheme. It has ensured a continual supply of sand to the beaches of the southern Gold Coast and solved the problem of the Tweed River silting up.

5 .

6 Write a paragraph that explains your opinion of the TRESBP.Why do you think the project is regarded as one of the most
successful coastal management schemes in Australia?

In my opinion, TRESBP is one of the most effective, if not the most effective, coastal strategies in the World. I feel this way because of the way that the natural proceccess that are being re-created artificially, long-shore drift is mimicked by a simple pumping of sand. This strategy is put head and shoulders above the rest because of the way it is minimising apparent human impact, instead of dredging sand and using it for nourishments in a northerly direction. It is also very cost effective, which is a massive advantage




Draw an annotated map to explain the operation of

7

the TRESBP.

 .Look at the aerial photographs in 7.28. Describe the changes that have occurred to the mouth of the Tweed

8

River since 1962.

the banks of sand have slowly crept further and further out into the water. This would be a result of sand building up and up.

9

 Approximately 100 metres wide

Using the topographic map in 7.25 on page 164, estimate the length of the breakwater along the Tweed River entrance in 1962 and in 1994.

Year 10 Monday 21/2: The Science of Big Waves

Pre-viewing:
1. Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started?
Ocean waves are started by wind far out in the ocean. Big storms notmally get them started because these generate hugh wind speeds. Energy enters the water from this wind, which creates waves.

2. What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing?
Firstly, that they have no control over the wave , and its consequences can be catastrophic. The breaking of a wave can be explosive and also there can be many things under the surface of the water (E.g.rocks) that should be looked out for.

video questions

1. Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions.

The waves form on a jagged reef, slowly rolling and then leaping out of the water like a crocodile. The waves rises up and catapult surfers

2. Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured?

Waves are formed in the the North Pacific ocean in what is called the "wave factory", they are formed when wind imparts energy into the water in the form of surface going waves. Massive waves are formed when great big low pressure centres create a big pressure gradient. Waves are measured by wave height, the period (time from crest to crest) and the wave length (distance between the two peaks)

3. What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed?

Maverick waves are huge waves formed at the spot known as "Mavericks", they are formed out in the deep ocean but as they come in the huge mass of them is compressed against the many rocks coming up from the ground and therefore the only way the water can go is up and therefore making a huge wave. What is special about Mavericks is shape of the ocean floor, random rocks from the bottom focusing waves on that spot

4. How is energy stored and transferred during wave?

Energy is stored underneath the surface, in the deep water, and then explodes up as the water gets shallower.

5. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.”

 - respect the size and danger of these waves

 - “Get in there, catch one, before the wrath of the gods comes down on you”

-first learn about the physical processes of a wave, it will help you understand

 

Year 10: 7.2 Waves - Water on the Move

Year 10: 7.1 Geographical Issues in the Coastal Environment

Coastal Management Questions 7.1

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* Required

Name *

1. Describe how the settlement pattern of Australia is related to issues in the coastal environment? The majority of Australian citizens(85%) live within 50 kilometers of the coast. The pressure of the urban development along the coastline due to this trend has caused many geographical issues in the coastal environment.

2. Why is the sustainable development of the coastline the aim of coastal management strategies? A lot of work has to be done on these coastlines in many coastal management strategies because it will take a lot of work to sustain these coasts with the amount of people currently living on or near the coast.

3. What trend has been labelled 'sea change'? the australian trend for people to move from large cities to smaller coastal towns and villages where the lifestyle is more relaxed.

4. Describe one government response to 'sea change'. some towns have imposed resedential caps or population ceiling for there town.

5. Select four of the geographical issues facing the coastal environment presented in this unit. For each issue identify the human actions that cause the issue. overdevelopment -rapid growth of coastal areas pollution- rapid population growth of coastal areas coastal plants dying out- introduced species pressure on environment and infrastructure- tourism

6. What role do geographers play in developing management solutions to issues in coastal environments? * Geographers play an essential role in determining the suitability of developments and ensuring the sustainable use of the coastline.

7. Find an example that you and/or others feel is an example of inappropriate development. Describe why this is considered inappropriate. Give one way that this type of development can be fixed. I feel that the beachfront apartments at avoca beach are a good example of innapropriate coastal development due to the overpopulation of beach towns and coastal areas. This is considered innapropriate by me because i they are literally connected to the beach so feel that a lot of litter and pollution would enter the beach area, which is unhealthy because it could make its way to the water which could cause harm to living organisms in the water. This could be fixed perhaps by installing a short fence that could possibly stop a lot of litter from entering the beach area